39. Arpino Extra Virgin Olive Oil

In the Ciociaria region lies this village steeped in history, Arpino, whose name is said to derive from its town plan, which, when viewed from above, resembles a harp. The town lies on the left bank of the Liri River valley and is surrounded on all sides by woods and centuries-old olive groves. Olive cultivation has been the pride of the town since time immemorial; it yields a distinctive extra virgin olive oil which is an essential ingredient in the region’s delicious local cuisine. Today, there are many olive growers in Arpino who, through their work, are committed to producing this gastronomic excellence, which tells the story of a region and its traditions whilst embodying a local speciality. The traditional olive groves are situated on hilly terrain of limestone origin: the soil is permeable, dry but not arid. The most common cultivars are Moraiolo, Leccino and Frantoio, whilst Marina and Itrana are less widespread. The olive harvest, which takes place between 1 October and the end of January, is carried out by hand, with the aid of special combs or mechanical harvesters. Whilst this technique is certainly labour-intensive, it ensures that the fruit is harvested intact and at the correct stage of ripeness. After harvesting, the olives are taken to local oil mills, washed at room temperature, and then pressed using mechanical processes that preserve the fruit’s unique original characteristics. Once ready, the extra virgin olive oil can be sold in glass bottles, metal tins or ceramic containers holding no more than 5 litres.

"Growing olives and producing oil is a real passion for me,' says Fabrizio Martino, an olive grower from Arpino. Here in Arpino, says Fabrizio, olive growing is an ancient practice rooted in the village culture. Even today, for example, the unit of measurement used in oil mills is not the litre but the much older cannata, corresponding to twenty-two litres. The hilly conformation of the land is well suited, according to the olive grower, to the Moraiolo, Leccino and Frantoio cultivars: 'the Moraiolo cultivar withstands various frosts well, withstanding temperatures as low as 7-8 degrees. To cultivate it, however, you have to be a persistent and very patient farmer. Because it is an unstable cultivar, it often causes unsatisfactory harvests. But when the year is right, the oil you extract from it will be remembered for a long time'. Harvesting, according to Mr Martino's experience, should be done by the end of October, quickly, to prevent over-ripe olives from impairing the quality of the oil. The olives are picked by hand, those that are not intact are discarded, thanks also to the help of the wind that makes the ripest ones fall to the ground. "The most satisfying thing about this work is noticing a rapprochement of younger people to oil production. It warms the heart to find more and more young entrepreneurs at the mill. School classes also often come to visit our olive groves. I try to pass on to them the culture of oil, my real passion.