20. Campoli truffle
History
The truffle is the most prestigious typical product of Campoli Appennino, a small village in the Ciociaria region lying on a karst sinkhole 650 metres above sea level. There are numerous historical sources attesting to the presence in Campoli of this precious hypogean mushroom and the practice of its collection already in past eras. The first receipt dates back to 1759, still kept in the town's documentary archive, which reads 'Six pounds and a half of truffles for Mr. Cavalry Captain', testifying to its long tradition. In later years, terms such as 'tartufo' or 'tartufalo' appear in the municipal accounts. Other evidence of the notoriety of this precious product is to be found in the custom of giving it to princes and kings when they travelled to Ciociaria.
The Campoli truffle grows luxuriantly in the wooded areas surrounding the town and its collection is widespread among the people of Campoli who, until the 1960s, searched for it using pigs. Today, gatherers, equipped with a card and accompanied by specially trained dogs, go in search of the black summer truffle (Tuber aestivum Vitt.), the white truffle (Tuber magnatum pico) and the prized black truffle (Tuber melansporum Vitt.).
The decade-long truffle festival also bears witness to the close bond between the area and the community, and represents a tasty opportunity to sample this gastronomic excellence, in fresh or processed versions and above all with the delicious traditional first courses, starting with the most traditional of all: fettuccine.
The product
The Campoli Appennino Truffle, a summer variety, is characterised by a warty black surface and dark hazelnut flesh. The high olfactory intensity is characterised by notes of truffle and undergrowth. The taste is harmoniously sweet and salty, with a slight acidulous and spicy note. Good consistency and pleasant aromatic persistence.
PANCRAZIA DI BENEDETTO, MAYOR OF CAMPOLI APPENNINO
"For many years, the Campoli truffle has had, and continues to have, a decisive role in the economic and tourist development of the area for all the people of Campoli. For this reason, our commitment has focused on its valorisation and commercial promotion, also thanks to the inclusion of this local excellence in the basket of De. Co. products and the organisation of a national festival entirely dedicated to it'. The Mayor of Campoli goes on to say that if today there are no less than four companies dedicated to transforming the product into classic truffle-based sauces, in reality the truffle influences everyone's history: "The truffle is our history, it lives in our lives. My childhood memories are all connected to the truffle, as are those of most of the boys in the village. My father, whose main activity was collecting this hypogean mushroom, still goes truffle hunting today. And again, having a truffle dog, knowing the best places or competing to find the most prized product was and is a habit shared in the village."
Finally, the mayor recounts that in Campoli there are many sayings and anecdotes involving truffles. The most typical 'superstitious' phrase concerns the year of harvesting: 'Last year as well, but not this year!', with which all gatherers, professional and amateur, to propitiate a good harvest say that last year was the worst ever and look forward to the next one.
