15. Marinated Fish of Trevignano Romano

The tradition of preparing marinated fish has been a hallmark of the Trevignano Romano area since ancient times. According to legend, it was the patron saint of this beautiful lakeside town, Saint Bernardino of Siena, who reassured the population against the threat of a Saracen invasion and advised all the fishing families to leave their nets in the water and return home. It is said that the church of the same name, dedicated to the saint, was built in 1452 on the very spot where he met the people of Trevignano. In the end, the Saracen attack never took place, but the fishermen’s nets were miraculously found brimming with fish. This unexpected and bountiful catch gave rise to the need to preserve all that lake produce, which in turn led to the creation of the tasty recipe known as “de lo pesce marinato”. The preparation involves cleaning the fish, which are then cut into pieces, salted, coated in flour and fried. The fish prepared in this way is then preserved in glass jars, taking care to add garlic, lemon, sage, rosemary and coarse salt. The next step, which gives the dish its distinctive character, is to pour boiling vinegar – previously boiled with water – into the jars. This dish is commonly enjoyed in May, when the people of Trevignano organise the festival in honour of the town’s patron saint. This hugely popular festival helps to raise awareness of this tasty dish made with lake fish, through three days of tastings, rowing races, sports and games, and musical performances.

The small town of Trevignano Romano, which was probably built on the site of the Etruscan city of Sabatia, still retains its typical medieval appearance. The village is entered through the gate situated next to the Clock Tower; inside, the imposing figure of the beautiful 16th-century Church of the Assumption stands out, as does the Church of Santa Caterina, built on the remains of a Roman building, of which a few arches still stand. As well as an Antiquarium housing a number of artefacts from the surrounding Etruscan tombs, the village is characterised by its typical stone-paved alleyways that wind their way up to the ruins of the Rocca (or Castello Orsini), a fortress built in 1200 by Pope Innocent III and subsequently dismantled. Although very little of the Rocca remains, it is certainly worth a visit as it offers one of the most beautiful and evocative views of Lake Bracciano, which, stretching over fifty square kilometres within a volcanic basin, still boasts crystal-clear waters today. The Romans called it Lacus Sabatinus, and Emperor Trajan used its waters to supply certain areas of Rome, including the right bank of the Tiber (Trastevere). The aqueduct dating from the time of Trajan was subsequently reactivated in the early 1600s at the behest of Pope Paul V, after whom the restored watercourse was named. As well as Trevignano Romano, the charming towns of Bracciano and Anguillara Sabazia also lie on its banks.