37. Mazzafegata of Magliano Sabina
History
The preparation of pork throughout the region must have spread from the Middle Ages. From the 11th to 15th century, however, it must have become common practice for all westerners and the Italic territory in particular to eat hand-cut pork offal such as liver, spleen, kidney, heart and lung. The preparation of Mazzafegata in the Rieti area of Magliano Sabino, a beautiful medieval village located on a hill from which one can enjoy a splendid panorama that sweeps from the Tiber Valley to the Sabine Mountains and as far as the Cimini Mountains and the towns of Tuscia, dates back to this period. Mazzafegata is a sausage prepared with fresh meat and liver from pigs bred exclusively in Italy (belonging to pure breeds or derived from the basic traditional breeds, Large White and Landrace). The traditional preparation involves cutting the liver and lean meat with a knife. To the mixture are added salt, pepper, garlic, orange zest (sometimes wine and chilli) and then the fat lard, cut with a knife point. The mixture thus mixed is stuffed into a natural pork casing. The sausages are then produced and marketed in three versions: fresh, dried (i.e. seasoned for 30 days) or in Sabina PDO extra virgin olive oil, another flagship product of the area.
The product
The Mazzafegata, with its characteristic cylindrical shape, has a uniform deep red colour of the lean meat for the fresh version tending to brown for the dried version, white-pink of the fat with evident presence of orange peel. The high olfactory intensity is characterised by pronounced notes of fresh meat, liver, garlic and pepper combined with hints of citrus and wine. The taste is harmoniously sweet, salty and savoury, with a slight sour, bitter and spicy note. Average chewiness and aromatic persistence.
GIULIO FALCETTA, MAYOR OF MAGLIANO SABINA
'In the village, we have a long Umbrian-Sabrian tradition in the preparation of pork, but the technique of preparing Mazzafegata is the most characteristic'. This is how Mayor Giulio Falcetta begins.
The mayor, after obtaining the De.Co. mark, says that the intentions for the future are to exploit the mark as much as possible to enhance the product and promote, at the same time, the territory of Magliano. "At the moment there are two companies that raise pigs and the production of Mazzafegata in terms of quality is very high. The aim, however, is to further promote the product so as to increase demand for it and give existing businesses the chance to expand and new young people the chance to take up this work'. According to the mayor, the real step forward lies in the ability to network, creating a communion of intentions with local municipalities and associations: 'Our administration already has ongoing collaborations. The Mazzafegata, to give you an example, is always present at local festivals'. And he continues: 'In 2014, we had the idea with the other mayors of creating a common brand under which all of Sabina's food and wine specialities could be brought together. And again, together with the Proloco and the youth community, we are trying to open a shop for the sale of typical Sabina products. So the idea is to represent a single territorial entity... it's not an easy path, but we'll get there.
